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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known high-end venues. However, situated high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has made the family totally surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest place earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.